How is a wave measured?

To measure the size of a surf wave, we can rely on some more or less scientific methods that will help us with this task, which are:

oceanographic buoys:

It involves using the information collected by buoys floating in the water.

In case you didn't know, they have an accelerometer inside, whose function is to record what is happening in the ocean. It is an electromechanical device that has the ability to measure acceleration and movement that occurs in three directions, that is, when the buoy goes up, down or moves sideways, although it is not a simple process, but rather calculates through the movement in distance, which allows to find out the height.

satellites:

It consists of using data obtained through satellites.

In such a case, the radar signal allows pointing down, which generates a reflection that is transmitted. It is a different mechanism from the previous one, since it allows a more global observation and not as particular as it happens with the accelerometer.

Marine sensors:

It is a reliable alternative that will be useful to determine the height of the waves, all through the sensors that are on the seabed.

These are devices that record the pressure in the water, so the more water there is (which implies a higher wave height) there will be a higher pressure.

Bascom's scientific method:

It is a simple and even rational way that will allow us to find out the height of a wave, since it is based on scientific data through a reliable calculation.

A surfer could have a difficult task, since it is necessary to measure the wave from its crest to the mean sea level seen from the shore. Through this methodology, the size of the wave is greater than what we can calculate when surfing it, when measuring the distance from the lip to the bottom of the ottom turn.

This method, created in the 1960s, then, makes it possible to measure the height of the wave with a system of the distance between the crest of the wave and the mean sea level, all seen from the shore. The problem is that it is difficult to establish the height from the shore if there is no one surfing, since there is no reference to take.

Hawaiian method:

Another possibility is to base ourselves on what Hawaiian surfers do. They have their own systems to measure the waves. Basically, they measure it from the rear, though there's no real way to do that. What they practice is a rough estimate from the surfer's point of view regarding their own height at the point of the bottom relative to the lip, as we saw earlier.

It would be an "intermediate" system with the scientific method, because later it would be necessary to divide the height of the wave by two to obtain the result. The important thing is to know that waves are waves in motion and that they change their height according to how close they are to the coast, as well as the depth and bathymetry of the seabed.

It should also be noted that there are other ways of measuring waves, such as the one that occurs in surfers that relate it to their own size. This is why we speak of waves “for the head”, others that are “for the waist”, others that are “for the chest”, among others, hence there are different “theories” regarding them.